CLASSICAL PROCEEDURE to set up a FAST ORGANIC (KITCHEN) WASTE CONVERSION system

Keeping in mind that its an Eco-System that actually transforms the organic wastes into Vermi-Compost, the following points need to be kept in mind when planning an organic waste transformation centre.

1. CHOICE OF AREA: Choose an area that’s well drained so that there is never any chance of flooding during the monsoon.

2. SIZE OF AREA: For a reasonable demonstration, choose a rectangle of 4 feet wide by 20 feet long preferably against a wall. Divide this into 8 parts of size 2feet 6 inches by 4 feet, such that seven portions are reserved for the seven days of the week and one for overload. This would be sufficient for a loading of 5 Kg Kitchen wastes per day in each portion.

3. DRAINAGE: Raise the zone with garden soil or alkaline soil.
A bed of rock grit, which is available from stone crushing quarries, is also an ideal option. (This is to provide an alkaline base for the waste transformation so that any acidic leachate if any will get neutralized.)

4. VEGETATION: At least one Banana tree and several Canna plants should be placed such that its roots approach the zone where the organic wastes are being processed (This is because the root zone harbors the friendly bacteria and the tree also bio-indicates the wellness of the process)

5. VERMICULTURE LAYER: A layer of soil about 2 inches thick that contains castings of deep burrowing earthworms that are common in Maharashtra (POLY PHERITIMA ELONGATA) are spread on the soil/rock grit bed. The castings are obtained from under the Banyan tree in a forest where the castings are clearly visible over ground. These would contain the cocoons and the right type of bacteria required to initiate the process.

6. ACTIVATION OF VERMICULTURE: A 2 inch layer of COW DUNG is spread over the worm casting soil layer to provide a source of bacteria which would act as food for the baby earthworms when they hatch. This is then covered with a mulch layer of sugarcane bagasse, which is a rich source of sugars that feed the bacteria in the cow dung and keep them alive. This is kept covered with a gunnysack to prevent the cow dung from drying and daily, some water mixed with PANCHANGVRAT is sprinkled. (Cow urine, milk, dahi, ghee, honey)

7. INCUBATION PERIOD: For about 2 weeks, the vermiculture layer is kept moist without feeding any waste so that the Vermiculture layer has a chance to prepare itself and get converted into a living soil that would contain baby earthworms too.

8. FEEDING THE ORGANIC WASTES: The kitchen waste can then be spread with a rake onto the portion reserved for that day of the week and then sprinkled with a handful of a. rock dust, b. a pinch of lime and a c. handful of Vermi-Compost. The pinch of lime takes care of any acidic build up immediately. The rock dust also helps control any acidity that might develop by neutralizing it. During this process, it also releases minerals, which get added to the organic matter. The Vermi-Compost ensures that some bacteria contained within it start digesting the kitchen waste from above also. By sprinkling this combination, we can ensure that rates, flies, ants, crows, dogs are not attracted or encouraged. It helps to cover the waste with a piece of gunnysack for a neater appearance. Moisture can be sprinkled with a mug of water but much care should be taken to ensure that it NEVER gets soggy.

A different portion of the Vermi-Bed is used daily such that we come back to a particular spot only after a week.

9. CAUTION: Do not mix cellulose wastes such as garden wastes into he food waste. Its better that a separate area is used for garden wastes. For garden wastes, dilute cow dung water, which is kept in a drum, can be sprinkled daily to help break down the leaves faster.

SMELL: If a foul smell is observed, it means that there is a overload of organics and the solution is to underload. You would then have to consider a larger area to cope with the quantity and quality of organic wastes, especially if it contains non veg wastes.

FLIES: This indicates acidity, which can be remedied by sprinkling of additional lime. Also, check to see if you could experiment with adding more rock dust. If you observe less flies the next day, then you are moving in the right direction.

10. HARVESTING: After about a year of using the Vermi-Bed, stop loading entirely and allow the system to rest and hibernate. Maintain the moistening process. After a few weeks, you will notice that vegetable plants have started sprouting from the seeds in the waste. When the plants start flowering, you can safely harvest the upper layers but be sure to leave the bottom most layer so that you can continue the Waste transformation process after harvesting. The quantity of Vermi-Compost is usually 10% by weight of the kitchen waste that’s fed to the Vermi-Bed.

1. FAST YET QUALITY PROCESS: The Indirect Deep Burrowing Eathrworm Eco-System is about 10 times faster than a classical Earthworm system yet still yielding quality Vermi-Compost. Hence it can handle a greater amount of organic waste than worms can ever manage.

2. NO LIVE WORMS: The process does not have any live worms during its working since its the worm bacteria that are multiplied and encouraged for conversion of the organic kitchen wastes. Thus, this process can stand greater abuse and mishandling.

3. EASY PROCESS: The process is so simple that it can be handled by an eight year old child.

4. SAFETY: The process is safe and does not cause any harm to the handlers and gives visual warnings by breeding of flies and bad odour so that the problems can be remedied. The presence of the plants prevents any disease.

5. MULTIPLE USES: The Vermi-Compost can also be used as a sanitiser by sprinkling on a garbage heap to digest the wastes so that flies and rats do not have much role anymore. If it is sprinkled in the storm drains, then the enzymes in the Vermi-Compost lock up the nutrients in the water depriving the mosquitoes of any role. If sprinkled in the kitchen, it also discourages cockroaches. It kills any bad odour caused by organic rotting.

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